Demos

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Demo Report – April 2026 – Steve Kearvell

Our demonstrator for the evening was Steve Kearvell, visiting us for the first time from King’s Lynn. In addition to his demonstration, Steve brought along a selection of sanding and finishing materials, which proved especially helpful for members who may find it difficult to source these supplies themselves.
During the demo, Steve turned a sycamore bowl measuring approximately 10 inches in diameter and 2.5 inches deep. The finished piece featured an attractive metal leaf decoration applied to the rim.

To begin, the blank had a hole drilled into its base, allowing it to be securely mounted on the lathe using a screw chuck. The lathe was then operated at speeds ranging between 800 and 1200 rpm throughout the turning process.
Using a bowl gouge, the rim was initially trued to form a clean, round shape. A draw cut was then used to create a flat surface. A 54 mm mortice, approximately 5 mm deep, was cut to allow mounting on the chuck once the main body shape had been completed. Within the mortice, a domed detail was formed, and a dovetail profile was cut using a skew chisel to ensure a secure fit. The external form of the bowl was then shaped into an ogee profile, using a combination of push and pull cuts. Once the desired shape was achieved, the surface was sanded progressively through grits ranging from 120 to 400 to achieve a smooth finish.

A sanding sealer/thinner, mixed at a 60/40 ratio, was applied to the wood. Once dry, it was burnished back using the shavings produced during turning, and this process was repeated to build up a smooth surface. A gloss wax was then applied to the underside of the bowl and polished, with the application repeated to enhance the finish.

At the halfway stage of the evening, Steve paused to answer several questions that had been raised during the demonstration.

The blank was then reversed onto the chuck so that the front face could be worked during the second part of the evening. The face was trued to a flat surface, after which a bead was formed around the inner edge of the bowl opening. The surrounding rim was left approximately 5–6 mm lower than the bead, creating a defined step. The rim was then sanded using progressively finer grits, and a sanding sealer was applied at this stage.

Once dry, a layer of size was applied to the wider area of the rim and allowed to become tacky. Metal leaf was then carefully laid over this area. When the surface was fully covered, a soft brush was used to remove excess leaf and smooth it down to achieve an even finish. The piece should then be left to dry for approximately 24 hours before proceeding. A spray varnish was applied over the metal leaf to seal it, as the size does not fully harden on its own. Drying was then accelerated using a heat gun. The bead was then painted with black gesso while the lathe was running, ensuring the paint was worked down to the base of the bead.

This was left to dry before proceeding to hollow the bowl.
Once the waste material had been removed and the internal shape completed, the same finishing process was applied as before, using progressively finer grits, followed by sanding sealer and a wax finish.

The bowl was now complete, and Steve kindly donated the piece to help raise funds for Mary Stevens Hospice. Thanks were extended to all those who assisted with setting up and taking down the equipment for the evening. Appreciation was also given to Steve Hackett and Sam Paskin for managing the audio and video equipment, and to Mike for organising and running the raffle.

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Demo Report – March 2026 – Rob Hackett

For our evening’s entertainment, we enjoyed a demonstration from our very own member, Robert Hackett.

Rob demonstrated how to make two different wands, using only skew chisels throughout. The first was an 8” very thin wand, followed by a 16” off-centre wand, both turned from cherry. These are excellent projects for developing skew skills.

He began with an explanation of the wood choice, the type of skew he prefers, and his main skews are round bar, and all have a flat cutting edge, ground at 90° to the shaft.

Rob started with an explanation of how to turn the wood whilst supporting the wood blank with his hand.

The first project was a very thin, straight wand. Rob began with the blank mounted between centres, roughing it to round using only a skew chisel. He worked with the thin end facing the headstock, maintaining excellent control throughout.

The handle was shaped first, with decorative details added while the blank was still thick enough to remain stable. This area was then sanded before moving on, ensuring there was no risk of whipping between centres. Rob then worked progressively down the shaft towards the tip, using a controlled planing cut with the skew. As the wand becomes finer, care is essential—the thinner the wood, the more flexible it becomes. Once the wand reaches its final delicate thickness, the lathe must be kept running. Stopping and restarting at this stage can introduce sudden torque, which may cause the wand to snap.

After sanding, the chosen finish can be applied, typically Tung oil, linseed oil, or a polyurethane finish, depending on the desired look and level of durability.

For the second wand, Rob used three different skews and worked at a speed of around 1600 rpm.

One end of the blank had previously been shaped down on a bandsaw so it could be mounted securely in the chuck—this reduced section being about half the length of the blank. As before, shaping began with the handle positioned at the tailstock end.

Due to the increased length, Rob used his hand as a steady while turning, helping to maintain control of the skew and minimise vibration along the wand.

For the off-centre work, the end nearest the tailstock was offset by approximately 5mm from the centre to begin shaping. Sanding was carried out at each stage as sections were completed, after which the blank was returned to its true centre position to continue forming the next part of the handle. These steps were repeated several times along the length.

As the wand progressed, it was moved further out of the chuck to allow continued shaping, repeating the same process as the piece became longer and thinner. This created a series of flowing coves along the wand. When less material remained held in the chuck, a wedge was introduced to maintain the off-centre effect as the diameter reduced.

Much of the process is deliberately repetitive, making it an excellent exercise for developing skew control. The offsets become progressively smaller towards the tip, requiring increasing precision as the work advances.

Thanks to everyone who helped set up and pack away at the end of the evening, and to those who looked after the audio and video systems.

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Demo Report – June 2025 – Andy James

For this evening’s demonstration, we welcomed Andy James, who covered the fascinating process of segmented turning.

Andy began by displaying a selection of his completed segmented pieces, along with various templates showing the degrees needed to form rings with different numbers of segments. These templates are used with a specially designed cutting sled, which Andy also demonstrated. The sled features adjustable sliding sections to ensure the correct cutting angles.

The required angle is calculated by dividing 360° by the number of segments, then dividing that figure by two to give the individual segment’s cutting angle. For assembly, Andy uses PVA Titebond glue for larger items, and CA glue for smaller work.

For the demo, Andy had prepared a glued-up segmented blank, which he mounted on the chuck. He began by hollowing the inside of the bowl, blowing away waste using a balloon-inflating unit. Once the interior was complete, he shaped the exterior, filling any visible gaps with CA glue. The turning was carried out at 1590 rpm, and the outer surface was sanded through the grits from 180 up to 1200.

Next, Andy carefully prepared the opening to receive a contrasting wood insert for the bowl’s neck. In this case, he used a black wood insert, which had been turned separately before being fitted neatly into the main body and fixed with CA glue.

When working on smaller segmented projects, Andy often makes his own custom turning and cutting tools from modified Allen keys — a tip that drew interest from the audience.

Once the insert was secure, he turned it to match the main body’s profile, adding a fine bead detail around the neck. The inner part of the neck was then shaped so it flowed smoothly into the bowl.

Throughout the demonstration, Andy answered questions from the audience, assisted by his wife, Beasy.

Thanks go to everyone who helped the evening run smoothly — from the audiovisual setup to the raffle and refreshments.

Report by Barrie Fisher & edited by Steve Hackett

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Demo Report – March 2025 – Rick Dobney

For the evening’s demonstration, we welcomed Rick Dobney on his first visit to the club. Rick demonstrated the making of a lidded ash pot with a fitted metal handle.

The project began with a blank of ash measuring 150mm x 75mm square. After marking the centre points at each end with a brad point, the blank was mounted between centres. Rick covered the essential safety aspects before spinning the lathe up to around 1300rpm.

Using a spindle roughing gouge, he turned the blank to round and then created a square tenon with a parting tool, checking its size with callipers. The blank was then mounted in the chuck, and its roundness confirmed.

Rick marked out the blank and turned the lid from the tailstock end. He carefully shaped the top of the lid, reducing it to a diameter of 65mm so it would later fit snugly into the pot. He reminded everyone of the importance of getting the bevel to rub before making a cut.

A Jacob’s chuck was used to drill a 7.5mm hole, 7mm deep, for the aluminium handle. With the tailstock supporting the workpiece, Rick moved on to shaping the main pot body with a skew chisel, achieving an elegant form. The lid seat was undercut, and the base defined with a parting tool.

After shaping, the piece was sanded to remove tool marks, and a brass brush was used to bring out the grain. Rick then applied Chestnut spirit stains with an airbrush – blue for the base area, blending into purple towards the top and onto the lid – while the lathe was spinning. Once dry, he applied sanding sealer and liming wax, working it across the grain to highlight the texture. After allowing 15 minutes to dry, the excess wax was removed with lemon oil, and the surface was buffed with a paper towel. A coat of Wood wax provided the final sheen.

The lid was parted off and set aside. Rick drilled out the pot body using a 13mm drill in the Jacob’s chuck, then hollowed it with a ring tool at 750–800rpm. The inner surface was sanded using locking forceps to hold the abrasive paper.

To finish the lid, Rick used a homemade Sycamore chuck with a cut slot that allowed it to grip the lid securely. He turned a decorative domed profile, taking care not to cut into the pre-drilled 7.5mm hole for the handle.

For the aluminium handle, Rick turned a 7.5mm tenon and shaped the outer profile using standard woodturning tools (suggesting older tools for working metal). He used MCC cutting compound with graphite grease for lubrication and sanded the aluminium to 1200 grit before polishing it with Auto polish. The aluminium used had a hardness rating of 60.82/60.83 and was sourced on eBay, 20mm in diameter.

Ricks Display Pieces

Club Updates

During the evening, we also welcomed guests from Wolverhampton Art Gallery, who spoke about the wood turned pieces being prepared to exhibit at the gallery later in the year. Steve Hackett is coordinating this effort, though members can submit their items directly with his support.

In addition, the club received £300 from the AWGB, presented to President Roger Cheshire by Barrie Fisher. This grant will go towards upgrading our audiovisual system. The AWGB also expressed their thanks for the club’s efforts during last October’s seminar and for supporting the gallery.

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Demo Report – February 2025 – Steve Hackett

For our entertainment this evening, we have our very own member Steve Hackett, who will be turning a stem for a glass in the shape of a heart. Using the technique sometimes referred to as involuted turning.


Sycamore is the wood being used for the demonstration, three pieces are required. All the blanks must be square to make the jointing true with no gaps showing, to secure the two pieces of wood together Steve used CA glue which was only glued at the ends not all the way down, this was then taped together which is a good safety measure to keep the wood from parting.
Next is marking the centres from both ends, along the line where the wood is joined together and then mounted on the lathe between ring centres, ring centres were used so that they do not force the wood apart as a pointed centre would. By using a ring centre, if too much pressure is exerted on the wood, it would just stop spinning between centres on the lathe.
Next Steve marked out the shape of the heart that he wanted to cut, this is turned at a fast rate of 3800rpm due to cutting air as it is spinning.


For part of the heart where it curves back in at the top a carbide tool was used to undercut the wood, this is then sanded to the required finish, this needs to be done now as you will not be able to do it latter.
The two pieces of wood are now split by means of a chisel and hammer. These are then turned round and glued together using PVA glue with the heart showing in the middle, this is then left for 24 hours so it has time to dry completely. For the demonstration, CA glue was used for this process.

The outer shape is now turned to the required shape, making the edges sharp prior to sanding. A tenon is now turned so that it can be mounted in the chuck, a record SC1 chuck being used for this process. A 12mm brad point drill was then used to go into the top where the glass stem will sit, this went in about 17mm deep the hole was then undercut by using a spindle gouge. With the amount of wood that is protruding from the lathe, you need to be gentle so that the wood is not pulled out of the chuck.
A standard live core centre is then used to support the piece while the stem is turned down from where the glass is fitted back towards the lathe head, this way the strength is being kept within the turning.
When the shape has been refined the pointed part of the heart is then filed back and into the opening to refine the shape, the file needs to be used with a rounded movement of the file so as not to have a flat on the heart.
Moving on to the lower part, again we need to produce a shape that is pleasing to the eye, Steve used a 15mm spanner to determine the diameter of the lower part of the stem which was again sanded.


A screw chuck is being used for the base which is turned to a round and shaped with a spiralling tool, a good amount of pressure is required for this.
A 7mm diameter is required for when the stem is inserted into the base, this is then glued.
The piece can then be decorated with whatever you want.

Report by Barrie Fisher & edited by Steve Hackett

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Demo Report – October 2024 – Ian Ethell

For the clubs’ entertainment this evening we have Ian Ethell who is a member of Trent Valley Woodturners and has been turning for a number of years now but still works full-time.

Off-centre honey dipper

For his first project, Ian will be turning an off-centre honey dipper and stand, and for this he produced a handout diagram of how to mount the piece between centres. The piece of wood was 200mm long by 30 mm square with the position being marked at 6mm each side of the centre line on each end of the blank, so we now have three points marked on each end of the blank.

Tools used were:

  • 1” oval skew with a 15-degree angle
  • 3/8 bowl gouge with 40 degree bevel and no wing
  • Parting tool

The speed of the lathe was set to 3200 rpm.
Ian used the skew using the toe to mark the first area to be cut, these are marked first by using a story stick with all measurements on. By cutting in, only 40% of the blade and bevel must be in contact.
The skew was used to produce the shape of C, and then the bowl gouge for the shape of A. You must start in the centre of the area to be shaped and as you move along the shape open the flute of the gouge up. When sanding, you must keep the strip of abrasive tight across the turned section. To make the shape crisper, you need to go back to stage C.


Stage B
This is to cut the area for the honey itself again we use the long side of the skew and then with a peeling cut produce the required shape cut with the point whilst rolling the skew, the parting tool was then used to produce the slots on the end of the shaped blank, these slots are then sanded to remove any roughness

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Shape G The thin spindle
Using a gouge again to remove some of the unwanted wood, work towards the headstock for this. Ian used the gouge laid over on it’s side to produce a type of skew cut, the shape of the spindle should have a slight taper to it.


Shape I
Sharp tools and clean cutting is essential for this, this is the first cut, using a bowl gouge cut the curve to the required depth.

Shape H
Same cut as for I

Shape F

Same cut again for this bevel

Shape D

The very end of the tail stock.  Take this down to about 5 to 6mm, at this point we still need the offset positions.

Shape E

We need to watch the amount of pressure being applied to the item now so that it does not flex.

Cut the handle back towards the headstock.  Take it down to a thickness that is still sound, as the other end still need to be finished.  At this point, go back to step D for removing this additional waste. The ends need to be finished off by using a carving knife for each end, then sand to the required finish.

Yoke now which is made out of Cherry

A flat piece of cherry is held between the square jaws of the chuck.  Then a slicing cut across the end with a spindle gouge.  Hollow out the centre from the end so that a hollowed out section is all the way through the wood.  The tool rest is now turned square on to the side of the wood and run down the side of the blank, then curve the cut into the blank to form a Y shape.

At this stage it pays to have a plain colour background which helps you see what you are cutting.  A bowl gouge was used for the side.  Produce a chamfer prior to parting the yoke off the wood.

Now for the base, again use the flat stripe of wood used for the yoke, this is used to mount the yoke into to form a bed for the honey dipper to be mounted on.

Bottle Stopper 45mm square

Produce an inverted cone, now a dome is formed on the end which is the widest part of the cone.  This is then textured on the end by using an elf texturing tool and also frame this texture with the point of the skew. At this stage apply sanding sealer to the end grain and then apply wax into the created pattern.

Now tip the blank within the chuck and re-tightened, this will produce the off-centre effect.  Slice off a section of the wood at the chuck end whilst using a skew, the blank can now be put back into the chuck so that it is running true again, at this stage remove any surplus wax that may be present.

Remove the waste at the chuck end so that a plastic bottle stopper will fit, this reduction being done by the use of a parting tool.  Remove the item from the chuck and affix the plastic end onto the turned item.

I have never needed one of these as the bottle is always empty.

Ian was able to answer questions throughout the evening.

Once again we must offer our thanks to all those who make the night run smooth, without them, we would not have a club.

Report by Barrie Fisher & edited by Steve Hackett

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Demo Report – September 2024 – Jason Breach

This year’s all-day professional demonstration event for the Black Country Wood Turner’s is with the very talented Jason Breach.

Jason will be demonstrating the following:-
Simple box – Pagoda box – Decorated box using the Axminster Eccentric Spiralling Chuck and finally a Decorative Owl head.

Jason has developed his reputation for woodturning over several years and has been teaching the subject for over 25 years now, and he lives near and works for Axminster Tools.

Links to reports on Jason’s projects for the day.

Jason had a display of his work, some of which he demonstrated how to turn during the day. 

Jason had several special tools made to his design, for sale during the event.

Henry Taylor Jason Breach Box Refinement Tools

During the day we had a display of member’s work and a member’s tool sale. The cost of the event of £15.00 for the complete day, in this reporter’s opinion, was well worth the value and the members who did not attend missed out on a very enjoyable day. We would like to thank all club members who brought in items for the display table.

The club thanked Jason for his input on the projects and tips as he worked through them, and also for answering all the questions asked throughout the day. Jason demonstrations went down well with all who were there, with a lot of new ideas and tips to use. It was well worth the cost of the day.

We would like to thank Ian’s wife Kim for the preparation and presentation of the food at midday.
Thanks also go to all who helped set up the event and in taking everything back down, also Ian and Kim for helping set some of the work up on Friday night.


I would like to say it was nice to get our rooms back again without the animals and the jumble junk. So we must also thank the new administrator that we have for making sure we had a clean room and kitchen area with all rubbish removed and also for having a good supply of chairs

Report by Barrie Fisher & edited by Steve Hackett

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June 2024 – Saturday All-Day Members Workshop

The idea of the day was to get as many club members involved in the process of turning two sets of mini Skittles for 2 games that will be raffled off at events that the club has coming up later this year, with all of the proceeds going towards the Mary Stevens hospice charity.

In total, there were 28 mini Skittles to make for the two games.


We had all three of the club lathes out for the turners to use, in addition to having various sharpening systems available. Some of our more novice turners took their turn on the lathes, with experienced members helping them to develop their skills.


Whilst the turning was taking place Ian Brown took the opportunity to carry out an electrical PAT testing process on all of the electrical equipment that we use regularly, thankfully all items were passed as being safe.
During the day there was a tools sale along with other items, this went down well with a good amount being sold off.
There was plenty of tea and coffee on tap during the day, with biscuits, cake and pork pies available for everyone.
It was a great day for the social side of the club, with lots of chats between members.

The committee would like to thank all of the members who took part in the event and are pleased to say that the turning project was a great success with the many different members taking part and producing the Skittles.

We would especially like to thank Robert Hackett for adapting the game design and making the templates used during the day, and also Ian Brown for making the game-playing boxes and carrying out the PAT testing.

Thanks to all who set up and took down the equipment for the day.

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Demo Report – May 2024 – Club Turners Evening

An evening demonstration from club turners Barrie Fisher & Andy Dore.

First up was Barrie Fisher with a demonstration on decorating turnings with Jo Sonja iridescent paints & marbling with drawing inks.

Here is a description written by Barrie on techniques, he used during the the demo with added photos from the evening.

Development of decoration on either a bowl or vase will always depend on what
effects that you are trying to achieve and the shape of the object to be decorated.

One of the most basic is what is known as a string pull to form a decoration, this can
be either a solid colour or a mixture of several colours.
Either way I tend to use a piece of plastic tube which has been cut through length
ways and fixed on to a flat base. This will hold the paint even with a flow medium to
thin the paint down, and still keep it from running away.
Any new designs are always tried out on a flat piece of smoothed plywood first to see
if they would work. For myself I find that the Jo Sonja paints work the best, which is why I stick with them.

Different effects can be used throughout with differing types of paints, dyes and
inks, all being available. For the vase the paint would be applied first by fingers after putting on a pair of
plastic gloves, the vase is covered in this way to cover the complete surface area, Then, still at this stage still with the plastic gloves that have on, pat the point all round the vase to form a pattern that you are happy with.

  • Cling film
  • Bubble wrap
  • Air blowing
  • Feathers
  • Wool or string
  • Rolled cling film

Feather Effect string pull

  • Step 1 – Lay a length of wool which has had Jo Sonja paint along the length as shown, then pull in the direction shown in picture above.
  • Step 2 – Repeat the process along the opposite side, this then forms the main body of the feather.
  • Step 3 – Lay the wool along the centre and pull back to give the effect of the quill.

Flower Effect

  • Take a length of wool and load it with Jo Sonja paint.
  • Lay the loaded wool line out in a pattern similar to that shown.
  • Put a piece of tape at the base of the design to take up the overload of over-spill paint.
  • Always pull through at the same point.
  • You may need to wipe off any excess paint at the base.

Other effects

Other affects can be achieved using real Feathers or Artists fan paint brush.

Water Ink Dip (Alcohol ink)

This can produce some good effects on the blanks, but you have no control of the
pattern. This is an expensive process due to the waste of ink.
You will need a water bath for this, deep enough for your requirements, then drop
some ink dyes onto the water in a random manner and cause a gentle swirl.
With using water for this method the blank needs to be smoothed down twice, once
dry and the other wet, in this way you will get a smooth bowl.
Then carefully dip the bowl into the water and again carefully remove, at this point
you can see the effect that the inks have produced on the bowl. This then needs to
dry prior to final finishing.

For the second half of the evening, we have club member Andy Dore who demonstrated his process for inside out (involute) decorations.

Andy explained to the group how first came across inside out turning. He read an article in a wood turning magazine many years ago, and the process intrigued him so decided to have go to see what he could do. This developed into the we saw on the night.

Andy turns the decorations from white wood 34mm x 34mm from Wickes. He finds the wood clean to turn, it sands well & is not gummy like most pine woods. He cuts pieces 120mm long, and reduces them down to the 30mm x 30mm using the band saw and had a hand plain, making sure all sides are square. The centres are marked on the end using the corner cross method. The centres were punched accurately & then placed on the lathe between centres.

  • Step 1 – Andy turned a cove into the piece (see pic above) to the sizes in his plan, then its sanded using a round block. The coves then has finishing oil applied with a cloth. Some times up to 3 coats.
  • Step 2 – The block is the accurately cut into 4 pieces. Then turned around and glued back together with PVA, making sure that they don`t move. This leaves the coves now on the inside. They are held together with rubber bands until dry.
  • Step 3 – The centres were the punched accurately again on the ends & then its placed on the lathe between centres. Andy then turned the block round. (see pic above).
  • Step 4 – The round block is the placed in a chuck on the lathe, he the turns the decoration to shape looking to keep an even thickness around the windows, Finally it is sanded, and then is parted off to a point. As before it is finished with finishing oil applied with a cloth.

The club and committee would like thank Barrie & Andy for an excellent entertaining evening. It was enjoy by all present.

Report by Steve Hackett

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Demo Report – March 2024 – Bryan Milham

For tonight’s demonstration, we have Bryan Milham who has travelled up from Weston Super Mare to entertain us with his skills and knowledge. Bryan is also the secretary of the AWGB.
Tonight Bryan will be going through the process of applying texture and colouring from the ceramics industry, and applying them to the wood-turning environment. Beyond colour is what the evening is all about. Bryan went through Health and safety information at the start of the evening, before starting the turning process.

Bryan reminded us about the three things that all turners need to keep in mind while turning, these are:

  • The tools to be kept sharp
  • The tools bevel angle needs to be controlled
  • Think about the design of the project

Decorated Bowl from Ash – 8” x 2.5”

Bryan used a pull cut to form a flat face across the surface of a blank followed by a push cut to make the blank round and balanced on the lathe at about 750 rpm. The shape is then cut to a regular shape. Bryan used an aggressive cut when removing the waste wood from the outer-shaped area. A foot was produced for the bowl to stand off the table, this was then sanded down to 120 grit to give a key for the next stage.

Next white gesso was applied to totally cover the blank in a thick layer, black gesso could also be used. Then a dog comb or bamboo sticks were used, these had points on the end and were placed across the gesso as the lathe was running to form a row of groves all over the outer area of the bowl, the gesso was now allowed to dry before moving to the next stage.
When it was dry a layer of blue and red spirit stains was applied to the gesso with a Mouth Atomiser, on an equal basis around the bowl, this would then need a lacquer finish applied.

Decorated Vase from Sapele – 4” x 4” x 8”

Placed into the lathe axis and turned to a round by use of a roughing gouge, a skew was then used to get a smoother surface which was used by using the skew as a planning tool, this was also used to form the shape of the vase, a parting tool was used to form a foot on the base of the vase. A Velcro pad system was used for the sanding abrasives which were fixed to a flat shape and used in varying grits to the vase.
It is at this stage that the vase needs to be completely finished with a polish or wax before moving to the next stage.


An area was marked off at the top of the vase about 1” from the rim and again by use of the skew the area edges were cut with the toe of the skew and then the inner area just marked out an extra layer of waste wood was removed. Decorator tape was used to mask off the edge of the cut area and additional paper was fixed to the other area not to be worked on. The edge of the decorates tape was again cut with the skew to the outer edge already cut.

A hot glue gun was then used to apply the hot glue to the open area in a random manner around the open area. When cool a black lacquer was applied over the entire area which was open and then left to dry.
The edge of the decorated area was again cut with the skew to give a very clean edge. A guilt cream was then applied over the top of the dry glue, place some guilt on the back of your hand and keep going back to this whilst applying it over the glue, if it goes over this is not a problem.

Decorated Platter

This was already turned and just the inner hollowed-out area to be decorated.
Tacky craft glue was used in the hollowed-out area of the platter and then allowed to dry a bit before applying some ultra-thin metal foil, this was applied by putting your finger into the metal foil and applying it to the tacky area of the platter till it was totally covered. This is then rubbed with your fingers to get a smooth surface and remove the loose parts from the hollowed area. This then requires a covering of lacquer to embed the foil.


Bryan also showed how to use modelling clay to form decorations which can be set into moulds and then painted and then applied to the outer areas of the bowls or vases for additional decoration.

The evening finished early, so we finished off with a question and answer session and Bryan stated that if any member needed additional information they could contact him directly, his information is given in Revolutions.

Materials used:

Once again the club would like to thank Bryan for the evening’s demonstration and explanations of what was taking place during the demo.

The club would like to give their thanks to all members who helped out with both the setting up process and also the cleaning up at the end of the evening.

Report by Barrie Fisher & edited by Steve Hackett