The evening’s demonstrator was Martin Sabin-Smith from “Hampshire Sheen & The Woodturning Shop.”
Who will demonstrate a bowl with a textured and colored band to include Hot wax technique and a demonstration of Hampshire Sheen products.
Martin welcome everybody and started the demo, with prerecorded videos on how Zoom meetings run and how to use it, which was followed by additional information about health and safety and the requirements of PPE to be used within the workshop for the various aspects of woodturning.
Wood blanks for the project was Maple sized to 10 inches by 3 inches. Martin started off by producing the outside of the bowl to a set curve, following the rule of 3rds and the golden ratio, producing a shape that is pleasing to the eye.
At the same time as producing the outside of the bowl, Martin was describing the three-point contact for the tools, During this process, Martin suggested that we should always try using each cut as a final cut to get a good finish without tear-out of the wood, in this way we are always practicing a final cut. A tenon was produced on the base of the bowl ready for mounting into Axminster gripper jaws,
When satisfied with the shape Martin decided where the band would be placed, at this point he used an Arbotech carver which had a standard cutter disc attached, this was applied to the bowl at around the seven o’clock position, with the lathe running at 400rpm. The cutter produced a texture all around the bowl, it did take a couple of cuts to get the required texture
ready for coloring.
At this stage, a parting tool was used to put a line on either side of the band. A sanding sealer was applied over the band at this stage. This area was now sprayed with a black spray and allowed to dry prior to adding a gold embellishing wax over the raised texture, with a light touch, using a paper towel so that it only covered the top of the raised texture.
Martin then took questions from a number of participants and answered accordingly.
The area above and below the band was now cleaned up with cuts to remove the overspray leave an unpainted area ready for sanding, then for sanding sealer to be applied, and when dry a lacquer was used from the Hampshire Sheen range of products.
The bowl was now reversed and held in the gripper jaws, at this stage the center was hollowed out at the same time as describing how to manipulate the gouge and keeping the bevel rubbing when removing the waste wood. Martin gave good explanations all the way through the demonstration.
Sanding started from 180 grit using a drill & pad and then through to 240 grit, then to 400 grit, and sometimes 600 grit. Martin then applied the sanding sealer, when dry Hampshire Sheen finishing wax was applied, a very small amount was used and then buffed up by applying light pressure with the finger pads and continue to shine, a number of coats were applied.
The final application of wax was heated by a hot air gun to melt the wax to give a shine and then it was and buffed up as before with the pads of the fingers to give a high shine.
At the end of the demonstration, a number of people asked for Martin to be a demonstrator in the future, due to it being very well presented and enjoyable as it progressed in addition to being over the three-hour mark for the evening entertainment.
At the end of the night, Martin gave a discount code for his products which I would hope some people took up. In our opinion, the demonstration was to a very high standard and worth every penny that we paid for his expertise.
The evening’s demonstrator was Chris Parker from “The Bald Woodturners” who will demonstrate a Hollow Form with a Fluted Top and then colored similar to this picture.
Chris is a full-time Turner, artist, demonstrater & teacher. He enjoys being able to pass his knowledge onto others. His passion for our craft is as strong now as it was when he started. He enjoys texturing his turned pieces with various techniques from a simple wire brush to more advanced techniques, he likes his pieces to be organic & individual. He finds inspiration for his textures & forms from various places, but most notably from the ancient ceramicists.
The project itself is from a piece of Sycamore that is 7 1/2in x 3in thick and is turned at a rate of 1100 rpm for starters. It was mounted on a screw chuck for the initial process.
Chris started by curving the base round whilst also producing a tenon for the chuck, this curve being produced without the need of turning the blank to a true round. A pull cut was used to remove a large amount of the waste wood and then a push cut to produce a fluid curved form around to the top of the blank.
The marking out for the tenon was produced with a pencil attached to a piece of plywood sized to a set thickness, which when placed on the top of the tailstock and pushed against the blank to get the size required for a set of H gripper jaws made by Axminster.
Chris answered the various questions asked by the participants on the chat screen, with Rob relaying the questions to him, this in itself worked well.
Chris also used Blue Peter moments to keep the process moving at an even pace throughout the process, the blank was reversed onto the H jaws and then hollowed out, at this moment Chris produced his second blank which had been hollowed out and allowed to dry.
This then needed to be re-turned to bring it back to true round, this was achieved by mounting the blank onto Pin jaws that had hosepipe pushed over them so as not to mark the wood, this was inserted into the opening, and carefully secured.
A Simon Hope 6mm hollowing tool was used for this and a hook tool. When Chris was satisfied with the shape and the hollow form he then used his indexing plate to form 14 segments around the top of the form by drawing a line straight across the form using a pencil jig set to the height of the lathe center.
The hollow form was again refined with a curve from one aspect of the segment to another, (a French curve could be used for this) in this way a gentle curve was produced around the top of the form.
This was then removed with the chuck and fitted to a Woodcut Carvers Clamp that was inserted into the tool post holder. At this point Chris put a line around the top of the hollow form as a guide to how deep he could go, bearing in mind that he had a wall thickness of around 12mm to play with.
Chris then produced a Die Grinder with a Kutuall ¾ extreme bull nose burr which he used to start refining the top of the form in a sweeping motion for each segment, when satisfied with the depth and the progress he swapped to a 9.5mm smaller extreme burr to finish off the process. A further texture was added at this point by the use of a Dremel engraver with a blunt nail which was used in all of the flutes.
Chris demonstrated this process on three flutes and then produced another hollow form with all of the flutes cut and engraved. The smoothing process was carried out with a Silverline Filament Wheel which has a silicon compound embedded into it so that it always has a sharp edge.
The top of the form was then sprayed with Black Acrylic Paint from the center outwards to keep the paint spray away from the out edge of the curve, this was then dried utilizing a hot air gun although Chris did state that he normally allows them to dry naturally.
At this point a Metallic Gold Paint was applied to the ridges of the flutes utilizing a dry brush technique, this highlighted the ridges and also the texture produced by the texturing. This dry technique allows for more paint to be added if required but it cannot remove it if the brush is overloaded with paint. Stroke the paint onto the form, do not dab it on.
When the paint has dried a Lacquer was applied,with either a Satin or Matt finish as Chris prefers this to gloss. When dry the hollow form is again reversed to remove the foot from the project, at this point either a flat or rounded foot can be used, for our project a flat foot was produced.
Chris’s demo went down very well with all participants and was also mentioned that he would be coming back to demonstrate for us again in the near future.
All references to the tools and additional burrs used will follow at the end.
I would like to thank Rob Hackett for his work with relaying the questions and for the excellent job of co-hosting the event as usual.
I would also like to thank the BCWT club for putting on this demonstration at no cost to members.
Ian Brown gave a date out for the Mary Stevens Summer Fair which was 4th September 2021 and hoped that club members would undertake various projects that could be used to sell for the charity event on a table that has been provided for us to use, with access to PowerPoint for the club demo lathe.
I will finish by stating that I think this was one of the best demonstrations that we have had and has given us all an interesting sequence of developments that we can use for our own project in the future.
Remember that our next chinwag event will be held on the 3rd of June 2021.
Don’t forget to send in your photos for the chairman’s challenge and any other items you are working on to email@example.com
Report by Barrie Fisher and edited by Steve Hackett.
Sue started the demo by welcoming the members and explaining the project she would be demonstrating, an open segmented vase.
Sue started with the base and was faced off so that the segments can be positioned correctly.
Sue produced a segment jig which makes it easier to position and measure between the spokes at the outer edge of the project,
Sue stated that we needed to use side grain and not end grain for these segments, (35mm x 7mm) the angle being 150, whilst cutting you will need to flip the wood over whilst cutting the required amount of segment,
These were then sanded and glued into position.
The glue used was Titebond Quick and Thick.
Sue explained how to position each segmented section and how to glue each one for the build-up and cut down on the glue where the openings will be. A pipe cleaner and water being used to wipe the excess glue out of the holes. A thick piece of paper was used between the top and bottom, prior to the complete glue-up process being undertaken.
At this point, it is time to shape the vase to your requirements.
We now need to separate the two sections where the paper is holding the two parts together, these should be able to break apart where the paper is holding the two pieces together.
At this point, we can hollow out the base to a depth as per the requirement. You will need to be careful of the wall thickness at this point you will need a wall thickness of about 5 to 6mm.
Sue then hollowed out the top section being careful with the segments as there are gaps between the wood shapes.
Sue then put the two parts back together by using CA glue ( CA for the demo quickness, Titebond is usually used) and only apply on the segmented ends, pressure can be put on the two parts by the lathe as the CA glue dries. When dry the final shape and sanding can take place to the required standard.
The entrance to the vase now needs to be cut, as the top was drilled out we know that there is a reference point within the vase that will be close to the top opening. By taking it carefully we can meet up with the drilled hole and shape the inlet part of the vase.
The complete vase can now be parted off from the waste wood. We now need to consider the process of removing the parting tool marks, therefore we will need to produce a type of jam chuck that the vase can be mounted on and held in place by the tailstock drive center. This jam chuck is not a tight fit as you will need to use a gripped mat to help with the holding. The base can now be turned off. The nub will now need to be removed and sanded.
A finishing oil of hard wax oil is used to cover the vase but you need to remember to also fill the gaps between the segments for full coverage.
As the evening progressed, I think that we all should have been able to take something from the demonstration as Sue explained everything as she went along.
On behalf of the club, We would like to thank Sue Harker for this months demonstration. Report by Barrie Fisher and edited by Steve Hackett
This month’s demonstration was hosted by Rob and Steve Hackett in a role reversal from last month. With Rob being the turner and Steve the cameraman.
The evening’s demonstration is a Basket Weave Illusion on Hollow Forms and Boxes.
Sycamore is the chosen wood for the evening, and Rob emphasized the health and safety aspects of using the lathe prior to starting. The blank was turned around and a 50mm Tenon produced on the end.
Rob introduced his shop-made beading tools, one made from an old bowl gouge, and one from an old carving gouge.
And another made from a bolt.
Rob shaped the blank ready for the beading process.
At this point, Rob used his beading tool made from a bolt, to apply three beads at a point where the blank was to be parted.
The central one was then removed for the parting to take place, at which point a depth of 5 to 6mm on the rim was cut for when the blank would become one piece again,
After parting the blank both ends were then hollowed out to the required depth, the shape of the lid part was taken down prior to parting with a small 18 or 19mm tenon for holding.
At this point, Rob introduced a Collet Chuck which can be found on Amazon’s website. 2MT ER32 Collet Chuck or 2MT ER25 Collet Chuck
After both parts had been hollowed out they were then glued back together with some CA glue in this instance for quickness, epoxy would be better. Being careful not to run the glue to the edge of the item as it could cause fumes when banding the item when dry, the beading then starts to take shape along the length of the hollow form.
At this point, Rob explained how he made a beading tool out of a normal bolt which worked very well, a slower speed was required for the beading of the hollow form with the tool being moved from side to side but it must be remembered not to go all the way to the bottom of the tool as tear-out could happen and spoil the artistic flair of the item.
At each point where the beads meet a wire was inserted with the lathe running to get a burnt line around the item, where the wire could not be used a small piece of Formica was used.
Drill out the top of the hollow form at this point with a 12mm drill to form the opening.
At this point, the complete project is sanded down ready for the decoration to be applied.
As Rob stated the basketweave required could be applied either by eye or by measurement depending on what you require the outcome to be, the upright lines are now burnt into the form being very careful not to touch the beads, work from both sides to aid in this aspect.
When you are satisfied with the pattern you can start to think about the colors that will be applied and in what shape. The paint used was acrylic with a high pigment content, this will mean that you only need to color twice to get the depth of color that you would require.
All questions were answered throughout the session with good positive answers by Rob with additional information added also.
On behalf of the club, I would like to thank Rob and Steve for this month’s demonstration and for the bumping car announcement partway through.
Report by Barrie Fisher and edited by Steve Hackett
Our thanks go out to both Steve and Robert Hackett who were again able to come together and put on the turning demo for those of us who are in lockdown and unable to move around.
The meeting started with Ian Brown going through some club information prior to the demonstration
The live demonstration for this month is being put on by Steve Hackett who is turning a Pool ball trinket
box along with Rob who was looking after the audio and video side, in addition to hosting the event.
Steve began the demo with a slide show talking about pool/billiard balls, their common sizes. The phenolic resin that they are made of, and the possible hazards in machining them. The importance of using a dust mask and dust collection.
Steve explained the process that he was going to follow and the tools he would be using.
8mm tapered tap
8mm plug tap
8mm Screw chuck
Steve then showed a video on how he drills a centred hole in the ball using a jig on a pillar drill, ready for tapping an M8 thread
Instructions on how the doughnut and screw chucks were constructed. The doughnut chuck was used to the pool ball was secure into the chuck with an 8mm bolt through in the centre of the doughnut chuck, this is then further secured by adding an additional top ring to the mounted base unit of the doughnut by three M8 flat head Allen screws that are recessed, these are 120 degrees apart.
At this point, a further hole is drilled into the top of the ball and again tapped with an M8 thread, which means that the holes are lined up 180 degrees apart and in line with each other.
The top of the pool ball is now removed by using a a homemade thin-bladed parting tool.
This is then smoothed flat and glued on to a piece of end grain elm. The glue normally used to do this is epoxy but in this demonstration CA glue was used for its quicker setting.
Whilst waiting for the glue to dry a hole was cut into the main body of the ball in various size bits to a depth
of 20mm. This was then turned to a smooth surface and sanded, Yorkshire grit was applied and then
polished with microcrystalline waxto an even shine.
At this point Steve started on the top of the ball by using a screw chuck with a 8mm bolt fixed into the
centre position. The wood was turned down to form a round shape, this was then put together with the
base to form a complete round sanded and finished item.
Steve Turned the base and the finial, also made out of elm. Both of them have a 7mm stem turned with
the aid of a spanner to measure the shaft size. These were then screwed into the pool ball threaded holes, in this case without the need for glue, but it is recommended.
Steve has stated that if anyone needs additional information, then please contact him.
Our thanks go out to both Steve and Rob for this demonstration.
Next month Rob will be doing the live demonstration. He will be turning a hollow form colour and pyography decoration.
Report by Barrie Fisher and Steve Hackett
Our thanks go out to both Steve Hackett and Robert Hackett who were able to come together and put on the turning demo for those of us who are in lockdown and unable to move around.
Robert Hackett – Gesso Texturing Technique
Robert started by applying black gesso on to a pre-turned bowl shape, whilst this was still wet sawdust was added which adhered to the surface of the wet gesso.
A second layer of gesso was then added all over to remove the color of the sawdust showing. This technique when applied does not need to be perfectly smooth as it is covered and will allow for a better key for the gesso.
When this piece had dried a mixture of Hampshire Sheen Embellishing Waxes was applied by dabbing this onto the top of the gesso and then rubbed into the bowl surface by way of a cheap toothbrush. Robert was also explaining the process as he progressed through the complete process.
Steve Hackett – Twisted Three-sided Weed Pot – (Multi-Axis Turning)
Steve started with a blank that needed to be turned round. When this had been accomplished the marking up process was detailed onto the blank.
This marking up process was shown both live and through the use of a slide show.
Steve started by dividing the blank into three equal parts by means of the indexing set up included in the lathe headstock. Two pencil rings were added to each end of the blank, the first one 10mm in and then the second one, in a further 5mm. The equal lines were then extended down each end so that we have three areas marked on the inner ring. These were then numbered 1, 2, and 3 on each end so that they matched up, these are 1200 apart.
To get the twist the following number combinations were used;
1 – 2, 2 – 3, 3 – 1 these give a twisted shape
If you only require a three-sided item, match up the following numbers;
1 – 1, 2 – 2, 3 – 3
Additional multisided items can be developed by using the same method.
The blank was mounted between centers with a two-prong drive in the headstock and a pointed live centre in the tailstock.
At this point Steve started the process of turning the twist, this was done by looking at the ghost image at the top of the turning blank, following the curve to get an equal displacement along each side.
Steve stated that the turning should be cut from the centre out towards the ends, this prevents an aggressive cut from being applied to the ends. The speed of the lathe went up as high as was safe to do so due to cutting a lot of free air. If you only cut straight across, you will end up with a project that bulges in the middle.
This was then sanded and sealed, a tenon was cut onto the one end and remounted into a scroll chuck.
A hole was then drilled down the weed pot by using a starting point with the aid of an engineering centre drill. The top of the jar was then trimmed by scalloping the top into the bored hole.
At this point, a jam chuck was mounted and the weed pot was inverted and mounted on the jam chuck, the base was then scalloped out and finished, this process allowed it to stand correctly on a surface.
The weed pot was finished by buffing with a series 3 of buffing wheels on the lathe, Steve explained and demonstrated how to use this system.
The buffing wheels used are available from The Polishing Shop.
Steve commented on the process as he worked through it, during the demo, a Blue Peter moment was required when the blank voluntarily removed itself from the lathe.
With the way that the lockdown is developing at present, the next demo will also be put on by Steve and Robert Hackett.
Last but not least we must also thank Robert for operating all of the equipment that allows these demos to take place.
Report by Barrie Fisher & Steve Hackett
THURSDAY 15th OCTOBER 2020 – Start Time 6.45PM
Our clubs second Pro demo will be hosted by John Aitkin the Bowler Hatted Turner. He will be demonstrating making a sea urchin ornament. Outlining all necessary design considerations and detail tooling techniques required to complete the project.
If there is time left he will turn a second project – a mirror or picture frame, again discussing design considerations and detail tooling techniques.
This is a paid demo, the demo fee is exactly the same as you would be charged at the club when we put on a professional demo such as this, as Covid19 looks to be with us for the foreseeable future we will be having more of the remote demonstrations as we go along. We are collecting the payment by bank transfer or cheque/cash handed to a committee member.
All club members Should have had a email regarding this. If anyone is having a issue with payment or setup of Zoom please contact a committee member or use the below email, One of the committee will help you out.
On Thursday 17th September 2020 the club will be doing its Second live club online demo… Starting at 7:15pm and will finish when it does
This Demo is free to all members.
Demo to be arranged
All Club member will having a email Regarding this meeting In the next few weeks, if there are any issue please contact a member of the committee and we will sort out getting the details to you.