April 1sh chinwag saw a new set of Chairman’s Challenge and another new gallery of work.
For the member who missed the Zoom meet I’ve added a gallery below of the piece sent in.
Next months challenge can be found on the Chairman’s Challenge section of the website Link
This month’s demonstration via Zoom was hosted by Rob and Steve Hackett in a role reversal from last month. With Rob being the turner and Steve the cameraman.
The evening’s demonstration is a Basket Weave Illusion on Hollow Forms and Boxes.
Sycamore is the chosen wood for the evening, and Rob emphasized the health and safety aspects of using the lathe prior to starting. The blank was turned around and a 50mm Tenon produced on the end.
Rob introduced his shop-made beading tools, one made from an old bowl gouge, and one from an old carving gouge.
And another made from a bolt.
Rob shaped the blank ready for the beading process.
At this point, Rob used his beading tool made from a bolt, to apply three beads at a point where the blank was to be parted.
The central one was then removed for the parting to take place, at which point a depth of 5 to 6mm on the rim was cut for when the blank would become one piece again,
After parting the blank both ends were then hollowed out to the required depth, the shape of the lid part was taken down prior to parting with a small 18 or 19mm tenon for holding.
At this point, Rob introduced a Collet Chuck which can be found on Amazon’s website. 2MT ER32 Collet Chuck or 2MT ER25 Collet Chuck
After both parts had been hollowed out they were then glued back together with some CA glue in this instance for quickness, epoxy would be better. Being careful not to run the glue to the edge of the item as it could cause fumes when banding the item when dry, the beading then starts to take shape along the length of the hollow form.
At this point, Rob explained how he made a beading tool out of a normal bolt which worked very well, a slower speed was required for the beading of the hollow form with the tool being moved from side to side but it must be remembered not to go all the way to the bottom of the tool as tear-out could happen and spoil the artistic flair of the item.
At each point where the beads meet a wire was inserted with the lathe running to get a burnt line around the item, where the wire could not be used a small piece of Formica was used.
Drill out the top of the hollow form at this point with a 12mm drill to form the opening.
At this point, the complete project is sanded down ready for the decoration to be applied.
As Rob stated the basketweave required could be applied either by eye or by measurement depending on what you require the outcome to be, the upright lines are now burnt into the form being very careful not to touch the beads, work from both sides to aid in this aspect.
When you are satisfied with the pattern you can start to think about the colors that will be applied and in what shape. The paint used was acrylic with a high pigment content, this will mean that you only need to color twice to get the depth of color that you would require.
All questions were answered throughout the session with good positive answers by Rob with additional information added also.
On behalf of the club, I would like to thank Rob and Steve for this month’s demonstration and for the bumping car announcement partway through.
Report by Barrie Fisher and edited by Steve Hackett
March 4th chinwag saw a new set of Chairman’s Challenge.
For the member who missed the Zoom meet I’ve added a gallery below of the piece sent in.
Next months challenge can be found on the Chairman’s Challenge section of the website Link
Our thanks go out to both Steve and Robert Hackett who were again able to come together via Zoom and put on the turning demo for those of us who are in lockdown and unable to move around.
The meeting started with Ian Brown going through some club information prior to the demonstration
The live demonstration for this month is being put on by Steve Hackett who is turning a Pool ball trinket
box along with Rob who was looking after the audio and video side, in addition to hosting the event.
Steve began the demo with a slide show talking about pool/billiard balls, their common sizes. The phenolic resin that they are made of, and the possible hazards in machining them. The importance of using a dust mask and dust collection.
Steve explained the process that he was going to follow and the tools he would be using.
8mm tapered tap
8mm plug tap
Tap wrench
6.8mm drill
Centre drill
Doughnut chuck
8mm Screw chuck
Steve then showed a video on how he drills a centred hole in the ball using a jig on a pillar drill, ready for tapping an M8 thread
Instructions on how the doughnut and screw chucks were constructed. The doughnut chuck was used to the pool ball was secure into the chuck with an 8mm bolt through in the centre of the doughnut chuck, this is then further secured by adding an additional top ring to the mounted base unit of the doughnut by three M8 flat head Allen screws that are recessed, these are 120 degrees apart.
At this point, a further hole is drilled into the top of the ball and again tapped with an M8 thread, which means that the holes are lined up 180 degrees apart and in line with each other.
The top of the pool ball is now removed by using a a homemade thin-bladed parting tool.
This is then smoothed flat and glued on to a piece of end grain elm. The glue normally used to do this is epoxy but in this demonstration CA glue was used for its quicker setting.
Whilst waiting for the glue to dry a hole was cut into the main body of the ball in various size bits to a depth
of 20mm. This was then turned to a smooth surface and sanded, Yorkshire grit was applied and then
polished with microcrystalline waxto an even shine.
At this point Steve started on the top of the ball by using a screw chuck with a 8mm bolt fixed into the
centre position. The wood was turned down to form a round shape, this was then put together with the
base to form a complete round sanded and finished item.
Steve Turned the base and the finial, also made out of elm. Both of them have a 7mm stem turned with
the aid of a spanner to measure the shaft size. These were then screwed into the pool ball threaded holes, in this case without the need for glue, but it is recommended.
Steve has stated that if anyone needs additional information, then please contact him.
Our thanks go out to both Steve and Rob for this demonstration.
Next month Rob will be doing the live demonstration. He will be turning a hollow form colour and pyography decoration.
Report by Barrie Fisher and Steve Hackett
February 4th chinwag saw the return of the Chairman’s Challenge after a few years beak.
For the member who missed the Zoom meet I’ve added a gallery below of the piece sent in.
As well as more Wig stands that will be donated to charity.
Next months challenge can be found on the Chairman’s Challenge section of the website Link
We Also Have a few pieces that were not finished for Januarys Challenge
Our thanks go out to both Steve Hackett and Robert Hackett who were able to come together and put on the turning demo for those of us who are in lockdown and unable to move around.
Robert started by applying black gesso on to a pre-turned bowl shape, whilst this was still wet sawdust was added which adhered to the surface of the wet gesso.
A second layer of gesso was then added all over to remove the color of the sawdust showing. This technique when applied does not need to be perfectly smooth as it is covered and will allow for a better key for the gesso.
When this piece had dried a mixture of Hampshire Sheen Embellishing Waxes was applied by dabbing this onto the top of the gesso and then rubbed into the bowl surface by way of a cheap toothbrush. Robert was also explaining the process as he progressed through the complete process.
Steve started with a blank that needed to be turned round. When this had been accomplished the marking up process was detailed onto the blank.
This marking up process was shown both live and through the use of a slide show.
Steve started by dividing the blank into three equal parts by means of the indexing set up included in the lathe headstock. Two pencil rings were added to each end of the blank, the first one 10mm in and then the second one, in a further 5mm. The equal lines were then extended down each end so that we have three areas marked on the inner ring. These were then numbered 1, 2, and 3 on each end so that they matched up, these are 1200 apart.
To get the twist the following number combinations were used;
1 – 2, 2 – 3, 3 – 1 these give a twisted shape
If you only require a three-sided item, match up the following numbers;
1 – 1, 2 – 2, 3 – 3
Additional multisided items can be developed by using the same method.
The blank was mounted between centers with a two-prong drive in the headstock and a pointed live centre in the tailstock.
At this point Steve started the process of turning the twist, this was done by looking at the ghost image at the top of the turning blank, following the curve to get an equal displacement along each side.
Steve stated that the turning should be cut from the centre out towards the ends, this prevents an aggressive cut from being applied to the ends. The speed of the lathe went up as high as was safe to do so due to cutting a lot of free air. If you only cut straight across, you will end up with a project that bulges in the middle.
This was then sanded and sealed, a tenon was cut onto the one end and remounted into a scroll chuck.
A hole was then drilled down the weed pot by using a starting point with the aid of an engineering centre drill. The top of the jar was then trimmed by scalloping the top into the bored hole.
At this point, a jam chuck was mounted and the weed pot was inverted and mounted on the jam chuck, the base was then scalloped out and finished, this process allowed it to stand correctly on a surface.
The weed pot was finished by buffing with a series 3 of buffing wheels on the lathe, Steve explained and demonstrated how to use this system.
The buffing wheels used are available from The Polishing Shop.
Steve commented on the process as he worked through it, during the demo, a Blue Peter moment was required when the blank voluntarily removed itself from the lathe.
With the way that the lockdown is developing at present, the next demo will also be put on by Steve and Robert Hackett.
Last but not least we must also thank Robert for operating all of the equipment that allows these demos to take place.
Report by Barrie Fisher & Steve Hackett
On January 7th the chinwag saw the return of the Chairman’s Challenge after a few years beak.
For the member who missed the Zoom meeting, I’ve added a gallery below of the piece sent in.
Next month’s challenge can be found on the Chairman’s Challenge section of the website Link
This month the club had a Zoom demonstration put together by John Boyne-Aitkin, better known as the Bowler Hatted Turner who is primarily a jobbing turner.
We want to say a big thank you to The Shropshire Turners who joined the event in collaboration with us. This made the event a lot better with respect to the cost of the demonstration.
The Zoom session opened at 6.45 pm for a 7.00 pm start time, the demonstration went on until 9.30 pm with a refreshment break in the middle, and John was answering questions throughout the evening.
Project 1 for this evening is a Sea Urchin Ornament for hanging.
The project was made out of Maple for the top and bottom areas of the project.
The bottom part was 1.5” sq x 8” long – Top part was 1.25” sq x 6” long
The Sea Urchin shells can be found on Amazon or eBay but a good link would be www.onlineshells.co.uk
John has a good method of explaining everything as he goes along and uses close-up camera work for this also, we did have a problem with one camera at the start when it stopped working, but John was able to sort it out with the help of his technology expert.
John mentioned the use of Health & Safety throughout the demonstration.
Project 2 for this evening was a mirror/picture frame.
Wood was 8.5“in diameter, and Mirror was 4” in diameter.
John answered various questions throughout the demonstration whilst carrying out the demonstration, he showed some very useful techniques of how to achieve different effects for patterning also.
At the end of the evening, John showed us around his workshop area with all of the various machines in place.
The club would like to thank John for the demonstration.
This may be the first of additional collaborations with SAW when we can share a demonstrator.
This is the first demonstration carried out by a club member whilst on zoom, this is a bit nerve-racking as there is no audience in front of you whilst you are explaining what is happening throughout the process and also a different type of how to ask questions, therefore this will be a steep learning curve for all of us in the use of the cameras and sound and recording of the process.
The Black Country Wood Turners Club had one of their own, Roger Cheshire, to demonstrate how to use pewter within a wood-turned project for this evening. The pewter can be turned into cabochons, finials and rings, all of which can be decorated.
Gloves – Mask – Glasses or goggles – enclosed shoes
Also, have a fire extinguisher on hand just in case you did not clean the area sufficiently first.
Scraping chisel – Parting tool – could also use carbide tools – patterning tools.
Roger started by explaining how to obtain pewter from various sources and demonstrated how to cut the pewter down and melt it. The melting pot was a standard milk pan to contain the pewter and then a camping gas single hob canister heater which is more than sufficient to melt the pewter, Roger has found over the years to melt the pewter and let it cool for a while and then reheat to melted prior to pouring. There is also the possibility of getting slag on top of the pewter which can be removed with a fork or spoon, at this point don’t tell the wife you have just used the best pan and utensils for this work. You will also need a level surface before you pour the pewter to get it level within the former.
Whilst waiting for the pewter to melt Roger mounted some wood onto the lathe to form a former for the pewter to be poured into, a steady hand is required whilst pouring, you need to take it steady but not too slowly for when the two ends of the molten pewter in the former a tenon was also turned into the former so that the solid pewter could be inserted into a chuck with gripper jaws ready for shaping. This was then turned to the required size ready to be inserted into the turned wooden item.
Prior to pouring the melted pewter, the former itself was warmed up to remove any moisture that might be present as this could cause the pewter to bubble and splash out of the former. Roger also warned against using oily wood as this would also react against the melted pewter.
During the session, there were various aspects of turning the pewter and inlaying a pattern which was explained along with the type of tools used for shaping the project.
The turned pewter is then polished down to 2000 grit with some wet and dry and then with the addition of T-cut to finish the polishing process. It was also stated that the use of Yorkshire Grit could be used (the White container type).
Our thanks go to Roger for being the first turner to be captured digitally by the new set-up.
I for one thought that the event went very well for a first-time event and was also a steep learning curve for both Rob and Ian to get to grips with the audio and video side of things, there is room for improvement to give a better viewing aspect and enjoyable experience. It is hoped that we will have learned a little more about the computer system for future demonstrations and be able to record them and use them on the club website for everyone to see again. At the same time, now we have the full complement of the Zoom facilities we are still getting to grips with the added aspect of what can be used.
Hopefully, by next month we will have enticed another club member who is willing to undergo the inspection of the lens and get used to talking through a mike and camera.
We will also be maintaining our chin wag sessions on a regular basis, so we can still discuss things as to what may be accomplished with the Zoom demonstrations.
Additional Information for Pewter.
Melt pewter in a well-ventilated area with access to incoming fresh air. Some pewter contains a high concentration of lead, which when melted can be toxic to inhale.
Never allow water to splash into your melting pewter.
A splash of water can cause a burst of steam to fly up onto your face or hands, potentially causing serious injury.
Place your pewter pieces into a stove-safe pot or pan.
Turn the heat on your stove up to its highest setting. Temperatures allowed by stoves vary depending on the make and source of heat; your goal is to reach the pewter’s melting point, Depending on the exact mix of metals, pewter has a melting point of 225 to 240 C (437 to 464 degrees F).
Allow the metal to melt slowly. Remember that, unlike ice, pewter does not melt gradually. The pewter will not begin to liquefy until the full piece has reached its melting point. Be patient during the melting process. Melting times will vary depending on how much pewter you melt and the temperature of your stove.
Gently stir the melting pewter with a wooden utensil. This will help the heat to distribute more evenly.
The cuttlefish bone can also be used to form a mould.
Pewter can also easily be melted over a fire, or by using a blow torch.
Project Fruit Turning
It’s that time again when we welcome a club member or members to carry out the turning demonstration for tonight’s event. The member is Wolfgang, he is producing a project of Apples, Pears, Lemon and a small box all made out of Yew.
Wolfgang used a type of screw chuck that the members were able to produce back in Jan, instead of it being made out of pine this was a stronger and more stable wood Laburnum.
The Yew blanks had already been turned round ready for the demonstration, these were in two lengths for the fruits.
The Apple was turned first which can be turned to a apple shape that does not need to be perfect for every one produced as we do not get exact shapes in nature.
Wolfgang gave a commentary whilst turning and answered question that members had whilst the turning was taking place.
The Pear was next which was started basically the same as the apple but was finished with a differing shape to produce elongated section of the pear.
Both the apple and the pear were finished off by applying microcrystalline wax and then polished with a polishing mop which was dedicated to this wax, prior to inserting a clove into the base of each. The stalk was made from a small twig that Wolfgang had growing at home.
The next area of fruit was the Lemon which was turned without the use of the screw chuck but needed a spigot to work from to produce the shape required which is more symmetrical than the other fruits. All of this took place before the half time break. After the break A Yew box was started by using spigots and jam chucks to get the overall shape required.
It’s good that we have a large amount of expertise within the club and members are able to step in and deliver their knowledge for various projects.
Thanks must also go out to Rob who set up the camera and video set up which made the demonstrations clearer for those seated watching.
The members also bought into the clubhouse a selection of their own handcrafted items for other members to look at during the evening, and give them additional ideas for themselves.
